Uma Wang Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Uma Wang explored lightness, movement and balance, looking to Alexander Calder’s mobiles and the changing climate for inspiration. The result was a collection of airy layers and tactile textures designed to move with the wearer.

Wang treated clothing as something to be manipulated rather than simply worn. A tailored jacket opened at the back to reveal a fluid silk panel that could be styled in different ways, while a mesh-knit sheath dress looped around the body like a cocoon. Spherical silver brooches, meanwhile, acted as both fastenings and sculptural details.

Her approach to fabric remained central. Organza, crumpled linen and sheer technical fabrics were twisted, knotted and draped into softly tailored shapes, while floral and checked jacquards, fil coupé and Art Nouveau-inspired prints added layers of texture. The palette stayed muted, moving through ecru, beige, bronze, brown and black.

Presented inside a 19th-century Protestant church, the collection felt appropriately weightless. For Wang, balance became more than a design principle: it was a way of thinking about how clothes, bodies and the world around them can exist together.