Theory Men’s Spring 2027
Martin Andersson’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection for Theory was shaped by a New York state of mind, reflecting the brand’s roots while looking back through the archives of the New York Public Library’s Picture Library for inspiration.
The starting point for the collection came from Andersson’s exploration of physical archives and analogue imagery, which led him to consider what he described as a shift away from digital life and algorithmic culture, and towards a more tactile, physical connection to clothing and fabric.
The collection referenced 1990s New York through relaxed, boxy silhouettes and an approach to dressing that mixed formal and casual elements. Andersson described this as a move away from a strict or monochrome idea of uniform dressing towards more fluid combinations and contrasts.
Key pieces included an unlined, boxy suede blazer with raw edges, paired with indigo-washed denim. Denim was developed further for the season in a range of colours including brown and white, expanding its role within the brand’s offering.
Linen appeared across multiple categories, including dusty pink short-sleeve shirts, technical knit sweaters and updated outerwear, including a reinterpretation of the flight jacket. Technical seersucker popovers introduced colour variation within a preppy framework, while field jackets were updated with four-pocket constructions and hidden button details.
Packable garments, including shirts, shorts and jackets in light water-resistant fabrics, added a functional layer to the collection. A trompe l’oeil knit introduced hybrid construction, combining the appearance of a crewneck and cardigan within a single piece.
Tailoring was delivered in tropical wool sourced from an Italian mill dating back to the 1600s, presented in lightweight constructions and fluid silhouettes that rounded out the collection’s approach to modern menswear staples.
