Dries Van Noten Men’s Spring 2027
Dries Van Noten closed the third day of Paris Fashion Week by taking guests to the outskirts of the city, staging the Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show at the Tennis Club de Paris in the 16th arrondissement. On arrival, guests were offered ice lollies and cold bottles of lager, a response to the persistent heat.
The front row included understated appearances from Jesse Rutherford and Jordan Firstman, in contrast to the brand’s usual avoidance of high-profile celebrity seating.
The collection was anchored in Stéphane Mallarmé’s 1876 poem The Faun’s Afternoon, which tells the story of a half-man, half-animal creature awakening in the woods and questioning whether his dream encounters with nymphs and fairies were real. The poem’s sense of liminality between reality and fantasy informed the collection’s approach to softness and fluidity.
Tailoring opened in hazy blush and peach tones, with silhouettes designed to billow and move lightly. Traditional wardrobe pieces were reworked with transparency and softness, including trench coats rendered in sheer materials and parka jackets made in washed pongé silk.
Lace and broderie anglaise were used across knitted tops, while camouflage motifs were softened into botanical and nature-inspired prints. Photorealistic landscape imagery appeared across garments, bringing natural environments directly onto fabric surfaces.
A number of menswear staples were reinterpreted through a more fluid lens. A spaghetti-strap vest referenced lingerie as everyday wear, while foulards were designed to be tied and untied freely in response to the summer heat.
The collection continued with translucent layering, softened camouflage patterns, and floral or landscape-based prints across parkas, t-shirts, coats and trousers. Denim appeared in bleached, clouded finishes, while silk tailoring introduced darker, more fluid eveningwear references.
Details focused on the neck and upper body, with lace and broderie anglaise accents, raw-edge collars, and cut-off constructions adding to the sense of deconstruction. Animalier touches appeared in belts and bags, reinforcing the collection’s natural references within an overall palette of blush, earthy tones, greens and blues.
