Sean Suen Men’s Spring 2027
Sean Suen’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection in Paris explored a more personal and playful direction for the Beijing-based designer, while retaining his focus on sharp tailoring and clean construction.
The collection referenced the “Beijing bikini,” a colloquial trend in which men roll up their shirts to expose their midriffs in the heat. Suen used this as a conceptual starting point to explore ideas of layering, exposure and loosened form.
Backstage, the designer reflected on ten years of showing in Paris, noting a desire to revisit earlier work and create something more personal in tone.
Tailoring remained central, alongside references to Chinese heritage including imperial-era scholar hats and traditional forms of dress. These elements were reinterpreted through modern silhouettes and subtle exaggeration.
New construction techniques introduced a sense of trompe-l’œil throughout the collection. A Mandarin-collar top appeared rumpled and lifted, achieved through concealed button tabs and placed pintucks. Other looks manipulated classic shirt collars to expose the nape of the neck or create the illusion of untucked shirting.
Trousers were engineered to suggest openness, occasionally revealing cut-out underwear created in collaboration with Chinese label Pour Lui.
These looser, more expressive gestures were balanced with structured tailoring. Pleated trousers and controlled silhouettes anchored the collection, maintaining Suen’s focus on precise fit and proportion while allowing for a more relaxed, summer-driven attitude.
