Ruohan Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Ruohan Nie loosened her approach to construction, moving away from the more rigid silhouettes of previous seasons and allowing clothes to sit on the body rather than dictate its shape. Curved aluminium sculptures set the scene in the show space, reflecting the collection’s interest in taking familiar elements apart and putting them back together differently. The result was a wardrobe that felt more fluid, with new outerwear including windbreaker-style jackets and vests joining her ongoing experiments with knitwear and unusual materials.

The collection began with the basic strokes used to form Chinese characters: heng, shu, pie and na, representing horizontal, vertical, left-falling and right-falling lines. Nie translated these gestures into clothing through cutouts, folds and origami-like constructions, creating architectural shapes that could shift around the body. A checkered linen look, for example, was woven into a complex grid using eight yarns crossing in four directions and across two surfaces.

Garment components were treated in much the same way. Sleeves, jackets and skirts became modular building blocks, divided and rearranged to create new proportions and unexpected ways of draping. Rather than presenting a single fixed silhouette, Ruohan allowed the clothes to move between structure and softness, making the construction itself part of the visual language.

The collection marks a subtle but significant change in Nie’s design approach: less about controlling the body and more about giving it room to move. That sense of freedom also extends beyond the runway, with the Shanghai-based brand preparing to open its first standalone store on Hunan Road in November.