Chloé Spring 2027

Chemena Kamali leaned into her deepest Chloé obsessions for Spring 2027, delivering a collection filled with broderie anglaise, lingerie dressing, romantic necklines and breezy outerwear. The designer has an unusually close relationship with the house, having first joined Chloé in 2007 and later returned as design director, and that familiarity was evident throughout. Rather than reinventing the brand, she pulled apart its archive and personal memories, creating a wardrobe that felt distinctly Chloé without becoming nostalgic costume.

Broderie anglaise was the central fixation, appearing on crisp cottons, wispy chiffon and structured organza, as well as handbags and tall boots. Kamali layered the embroidery with guipure lace, three-dimensional flowers, pearls and silk tassels, allowing the decoration to build into something almost couture-like. Necklines were another recurring detail, moving between sweetheart, boatneck, scoopneck and off-the-shoulder shapes, while lingerie-inspired pieces and cape-like silhouettes added to the collection’s romantic ease.

Outerwear took a more practical turn. Fishermen provided the starting point for yellow slickers and floppy hats with exaggerated brims, while transparent smoky capes were inspired by Chloé sunglasses. Elsewhere, Kamali nodded to Karl Lagerfeld’s Chloé through a white scalloped suit from 1972, while keeping the overall mood light, youthful and deliberately unforced.

There was a wistful quality to the presentation, heightened by a soundtrack of Kamali’s personal touchstones and a finale set to Hildegard Knef’s Für mich soll’s rote Rosen regnen. After several seasons of re-establishing Chloé’s romantic, sunny character, Spring 2027 felt like a collection made from genuine affection for the house. The result was less about chasing a new direction than understanding what makes Chloé feel like Chloé in the first place.