Tom Ford Spring 2027

Haider Ackermann leaned further into the sensual side of Tom Ford for Spring 2027, bringing a little more danger, decadence and, quite literally, skin to the runway. For his latest collection at the house, the designer explored freedom through barely-there swimsuits, silk robes, cashmere knits, leather and the kind of razor-sharp tailoring synonymous with Tom Ford. Jackets and suits arrived in baby blue, black, olive and white, often worn with nothing underneath, or paired with plunging swimsuits, bras and shirts left dramatically open.

The mood was unmistakably ’90s Tom Ford, but filtered through Ackermann’s own more fluid sensibility. Silky evening dresses came in deep lipstick reds, slipping off the shoulders to reveal matching leather and padded satin bras, while others were cut with high collars and geometric openings. Red flowers pinned to lapels added a touch of old-school glamour, while languid silk and leather bathrobe coats and a monogrammed red silk robe brought a hint of Hugh Hefner-era decadence to the collection.

The accessories kept the fantasy firmly in place: skyscraper heels, weekend bags in leather, crocodile and linen, and perforated Tom Ford logos worked into leather jackets. There was plenty of humour, too, particularly in the contrast between the polished tailoring and the near-naked styling. It was a collection built around the idea of dressing without overthinking it, even when the clothes themselves were anything but simple.

Ackermann described the collection as an exploration of eccentricity, decadence and freedom, and that sense of liberation came through in the relaxed silhouettes and unapologetic nudity. Rather than simply recreating Tom Ford’s past, he is beginning to loosen its codes, keeping the sex appeal while making space for something a little more playful and unpredictable.