Ottolinger Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient softened Ottolinger’s deconstructive language, exploring intimacy, sensuality and the space between skin and fabric.

Titled “Moisturizer”, the collection began in an unexpectedly private place: the bathroom. The designers were interested in those quiet minutes spent applying creams and getting ready before stepping into the world. That sense of intimacy translated into a collection that still carried Ottolinger’s subversive energy, but with less emphasis on disruption and more on sensuality, fit and proportion.

Slinky black and white jersey gave way to soft pinks, with fine-knit dresses clinging closely to the body. Low-slung trousers revealed underwear bands beneath paper-bag waists, while hoodies were layered under sharply cut blazers and fluffy faux furs brought a tactile softness to the collection. Rather than dismantling garments for effect, Bösch and Gadient used sheerness, cut and construction to create tension.

The fabrics became increasingly important. Fine silk-viscose jersey was designed to move against the body “like cream on skin”, while padded tubes secured draped dresses without weighing them down. Trousers appeared to float above mesh underpinnings, denim seemed suspended from the waist, and cutaway jeans dissolved into transparent panels that followed the line of the body.

The change in approach was partly practical. After moving from four wholesale seasons to two, the designers found themselves with more time to develop individual ideas. The result was a more focused Ottolinger, where experimentation feels less frantic and more deliberate. Even the runway kept its irreverent streak, with a model filming on a ’90s camcorder, Offset pausing mid-walk for a puff of smoke, and Heidi Klum closing the show. Beneath the provocation, however, Spring 2027 was about something quieter: learning that softness can be subversive too.