Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2027

Yohji Yamamoto reduced his Spring 2027 collection to a simple phrase: “just fringes.” Naturally, nothing about it was quite that simple. Across the collection, fringe became both decoration and construction, appearing to hold garments together while simultaneously suggesting they were coming apart.

Threads streamed from sculptural opening looks, traced irregular patchwork panels and fell from shoulders like military braids left deliberately unfinished. Tailored pieces were interrupted by strands that revealed flashes of the midriff, while others wrapped the body in geometric lattices and swirling patterns. In several coats, the weft appeared to have disappeared altogether, leaving the warp hanging freely, while knitwear gradually dissolved from solid colour into transparency.

The effect was less about ornament than process. Yamamoto spoke of repetition and craft, suggesting that the fringe could become fabric or fabric could become fringe, depending on how you chose to look at it. There was something particularly tactile about the collection at a moment when fashion is increasingly shaped by digital tools and artificial intelligence: these were clothes that made their construction impossible to ignore.

There was sensuality, too, but never in an obvious or prescribed way. The strands followed the body without forcing it into a particular silhouette, occasionally revealing skin but often creating the suggestion of it through movement and transparency. Yamamoto’s final thought was characteristically simple: the unclothed body is beautiful. In a season where the fashion industry’s conversation around bodies has become noticeably narrower, the sentiment felt quietly significant.