Lanvin Spring 2027

Peter Copping looked to a century of stylish women for Lanvin Spring 2027, translating a constellation of muses into a wardrobe of fluid tailoring, sophisticated eveningwear and clothes designed to become future heirlooms.

Copping’s mood board brought together an eclectic group including Anjelica Huston, Pina Bausch, Thelma Golden, Tina Chow, Lee Miller and Jeanne Lanvin herself. Rather than recreating their wardrobes literally, he distilled their influence into a collection that felt assured and quietly glamorous. Bausch appeared through flashes of red footwear and music from Wim Wenders’ documentary about the choreographer, while Indian textiles discovered in Jeanne Lanvin’s office provided another thread connecting the past to the present.

The clothes were fluid and distinctly feminine without being overly delicate. Narrow coats with shawl collars opened the show, worn with trousers, while long tunics followed in similarly elongated proportions. Peplums, currently appearing across Paris, were kept restrained, while low-crotch shorts with a skirt-like appearance offered one of the collection’s more unexpected silhouettes.

For evening, Copping stripped colour from the geometric motifs of the Indian textiles, introducing mirrors and transforming the patterns into removable plastrons that could be layered over sleek gowns. The approach gave the pieces a sense of versatility while preserving the craftsmanship and polish expected from Lanvin.

There was a compelling restraint to the collection. Copping’s references were broad, but the resulting wardrobe was remarkably focused: elegant coats, fluid separates and evening pieces with enough personality for the red carpet without being confined to it. Lee Miller, who modelled for Lanvin early in her career, was another fitting addition to the mood board. One suspects the women who inspired this collection would have known exactly what to do with it.