Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Spring 2027

Fresh from winning this year’s ANDAM Fashion Award, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt continued to refine her mix of conceptual dressing and everyday ease for Spring 2027. The Belgian designer imagined what it might look like to dress for the supermarket, the market or even a football match, then made everything slightly too chic for the occasion. This season also marked the introduction of menswear, expanding her playful take on wardrobe staples.

The setting made the joke literal. A darkened venue was transformed into a surreal supermarket, complete with strange fruit and vegetable sculptures displayed on pedestals and inside refrigerators. Against it, padded jackets and belted cardigan coats offered familiar shapes, while more unusual pieces seemed to hover around the body rather than simply sit on it.

Subtle distortion was the real focus. Crinkled taffeta tailoring came oversized and sculptural, sometimes finished with enormous bows, while dresses were pushed out at the hips with miniature hoops and miniskirts appeared to float around the waist. Velvet bustier dresses returned, alongside slinky jersey robes fused with bodysuits and deep-slit skirts revealing a single stockinged leg.

It was a quieter kind of surrealism than some of Adam-Leenaerdt’s earlier work, but no less distinctive. The collection found its charm in taking ordinary dressing and nudging it just far enough away from the expected, creating clothes that could technically take you to the shops, provided you were willing to be considerably more dressed up than everyone else.