Johanna Ortiz Spring 2027

 

At the Maison de l’Amérique Latine in Paris, Johanna Ortiz made a case for heritage that feels lived in rather than preserved behind glass. Following the earthquake in Colombia, the designer said the Spring 2027 collection was about “enjoying a little bit of life”, an instinct that came through in the collection’s colour, movement and sense of optimism. Rather than treating Latin American craft as costume or nostalgia, Ortiz approached it as something passed between generations, adapted and worn again.

That idea was reflected in the clothes themselves. Wayuu mochila bags and Nariño iraca-palm baskets were translated into pieces for an urban wardrobe, bringing traditional Colombian craft into a more contemporary setting. Ortiz also looked towards Maya civilisation for pattern, embracing the confidence of mixing geometry, stripes, checks and vivid colour. The resulting prints felt exuberant without becoming chaotic, particularly when placed against the cleaner silhouettes that have become central to her work. A collaboration with Paraguayan designer Mar Filártiga brought woven pieces into the collection, adding another layer to its broader conversation around Latin American craftsmanship.

The clothes were ultimately about the body. Fabric gathered around the waist, slipped from the shoulder and fell away from the figure, creating silhouettes that seemed to move rather than hold their shape. Ortiz has always had a particular understanding of draping, and Spring 2027 returned to that instinct with flowing fabrics, generous proportions and dresses that allowed the body to remain visible beneath the movement of the cloth. There was sensuality here, but it never felt restrictive. The clothes were designed to follow the wearer rather than dictate how she should stand.

The sense of celebration extended beyond the collection. Colombian artist Aria Vega performed throughout the show, turning the presentation into something closer to a cultural gathering than a conventional runway. In a season where heritage can easily become a marketing shorthand, Ortiz offered something more meaningful: a wardrobe that acknowledges where its materials, techniques and patterns come from while allowing them to evolve. Spring 2027 was colourful, tactile and unapologetically joyful, but its real strength was in understanding that tradition remains alive precisely because each generation gets to change it.

 
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Sacai Spring 2027

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Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2027