Campillo Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Patricio Campillo looked to the changing colours of sunrise and sunset, translating a sense of nostalgia into soft hues, artisanal details and increasingly experimental materials.

Patricio Campillo’s fifth New York Fashion Week collection, titled In Medias Res — “into the middle of things” — was rooted in the idea of holding on to moments of beauty. The designer found that beauty in the colours of the sun, building his most colourful collection to date around soft pinks, warm yellows and burnt oranges. The palette moved easily across bell-bottom trousers, short shorts, fluid shirts and relaxed separates, giving familiar silhouettes a distinctly atmospheric quality.

Mexican heritage came through most clearly in the details. Artisan-made silver and onyx buttons, closures and embellishments brought a sense of craft to the collection, while horsehair became more than a decorative element, appearing across trousers, shirts and footwear and helping shape the silhouettes themselves. A cropped silk dupion jacket used the fabric’s natural slubs and irregularities as part of its appeal, allowing texture to become a defining feature rather than something to be concealed.

Campillo also pushed further into material experimentation. One cropped jacket and bell-bottom set appeared to be leather but was actually made from a biological polymer produced using bacteria, turning a familiar luxury reference into something considerably more forward-looking. Vintage T-shirts printed with Campillo’s name and recognisable logos such as McDonald’s added a more nostalgic, irreverent note, available in both traditional and cropped proportions.

The result was a collection that connected Campillo’s Mexican identity with a broader interest in memory, craft and innovation. The sun-inspired palette gave the clothes an emotional coherence, while the use of horsehair, biological materials and artisanal metalwork ensured the collection never became purely nostalgic. In Medias Res suggests a designer increasingly interested in preserving what feels beautiful while finding new ways to construct it.