Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Spring 2027
Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection centred on the shoulder, approached as a site of continuous study in construction, proportion and form.
The show opened with three all-black looks featuring elongated jackets with elaborately pleated sleeves attached by large grommets, worn over loose shirts and generously cut shorts. Subtle variations in these opening silhouettes established a focus on experimentation, with designs exploring shifts in proportion, construction and the presence or absence of sleeves.
Further looks introduced upward-angled shoulder structures that formed peaked silhouettes, while others took on cocoon-like shapes with inserted panels and spliced construction details. The collection unfolded as a sequence of variations on these ideas rather than a linear progression.
Materials included black wool, unbleached linen, lace and devoré velvet revealing printed mesh. Later looks incorporated knits painted with metallic finishes and flashes of red, referencing chain mail and historical notions of male regalia.
Animal-inflected motifs and cross imagery appeared across garments, reading as symbolic references within the collection’s broader study of dress history and heraldic codes. Cryptic poetic text appeared on the back of several looks, referencing themes of inner ghosts, nostalgia and a sense of elsewhere.
The cast included a mix of striking and lived-in faces, with an approach that did not adhere to a single body type or gender expression. Closing the show was jewellery designer Rie Harui, who also serves as creative director of Yohji Yamamoto by Riefe.
Backstage, Yamamoto reflected on the moment, describing it as “very comfortable, but at the same time…uncomfortable,” and adding that despite difficulty, “you have to keep on living.”
