Rick Owens Men’s Spring 2027
Rick Owens’ Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show took place at the reflecting pool of the Palais de Tokyo during a Paris heatwave, where guests waited in shade, requested umbrellas and chilled water, and eventually sat on black benches that had been baking in the sun.
Framed by extreme temperatures and limited air conditioning, the presentation was described as reading like a metaphor for climate catastrophe, with Owens noting the idea of “performance under pressure.”
Athleticism was a key theme throughout the collection, anchored by a new collaboration with Adidas. Three-stripe sweatpants were worn low on the hips, while inflatable windbreakers featured Climacool technology designed to reduce body temperature during exertion.
The Adidas collaboration was positioned as one of the show’s main highlights, including Owens’ first high-performance running shoe for the brand, featuring an angular silhouette.
The collection moved between second-skin jersey T-shirts with zippers running up the spine and Owens’ signature strong-shouldered coats, worn despite the extreme heat. Outerwear included industrial-leaning safari jackets and iterations of his Dracu-collar blousons.
Military references appeared throughout, including coats and jackets with removable epaulettes, described by Owens as symbols of authority and trust, referencing airline pilots and cruise-boat captains.
Other looks included vaguely military coats, cage-like trousers constructed from rigid rubber tubes, and long black polyester capes. The footwear included Owens’ platform leather boots and “Frankenstein” styles that challenged balance on the ramped runway structure.
Models navigated staircases and a slanted metal ramp over water as part of the show space, with some appearing challenged by both the structure and the heat. One model appeared in the new Adidas running shoe, which was presented as a more stable and performance-driven option within the collection.
The collection ranged from technical sportswear to sculptural tailoring, including trim industrial safari jackets and variations on Owens’ established outerwear codes. The show ended with continued emphasis on performancewear and outerwear designed for extreme conditions.
