Varoin Marwah MONARCH AW26
For his London runway debut, Dubai-based designer Varoin Marwah brought his signature blend of Western tailoring and Indian influence to the capital, with a collection that found elegance in the space between structure and movement.
Making its London debut with MONARCH AW26, Varoin Marwah introduced a distinctly warmer vision of menswear to the city. Known for dressing Indian cinema’s biggest names and for combining Western tailoring with classic Indian influences, the Dubai-based designer presented a capsule collection that felt appropriately polished but never overly rigid. There was a sense of occasion throughout, but the clothes retained an ease that kept the tailoring from becoming too formal.
The suits were among the strongest pieces, particularly those cut in fluid fabrics that moved around the body rather than simply holding their shape. Draped layers softened the traditional blazer, while intricate embellishment brought another dimension to otherwise familiar silhouettes. Patterns worked across jackets with a level of detail that caught the light as the models moved, creating a subtle contrast between the discipline of tailoring and the more expressive language of the embellishment.
There was something almost cinematic about seeing this particular vision of menswear arrive in London. Against the city's cloudy autumn backdrop, Marwah's fluid fabrics, embellished tailoring and richer sense of glamour seemed to bring a little of Dubai's heat with them. MONARCH AW26 doesn't attempt to make menswear feel casual; instead, it embraces dressing up, while giving traditional formalwear enough movement and softness to feel contemporary.
For a first London outing, the collection offered a clear introduction to Marwah's world: tailoring with a more decorative instinct, Western silhouettes filtered through Indian and Middle Eastern influences, and clothes designed with the red carpet as much in mind as the everyday wardrobe. It is a different proposition from the restrained tailoring London often gravitates towards — and that contrast is precisely what made the debut interesting.
Image source: I.DEA PR
