Undercover Fall 2026
For Fall/Winter 2026, Undercover presented a collection that redefined ease and conceptuality on the Paris scene. Designer Jun Takahashi created garments that felt as light and wearable as loungewear, blurring the line between comfort and high design. Unlined, reversible tailored coats in cashmere and silk felt as weightless as cardigans, while army-style anoraks and bomber jackets seemed almost ethereal, crafted from stringy scraps of silk chiffon. Oversized padded silk jackets and scarves carried painterly motifs with a soft, cloudlike quality.
Takahashi drew continued inspiration from French plush artist Anne Valérie Dupond, whose stuffed creations—humans, animals, and internal organs—have fascinated him since his Fall 2004 collection. This FW26 line emphasized “premium materials and comfort” while retaining Undercover’s signature distorted design elements. A black leather jacket became a cardigan hybrid with mismatched buttons; a boxy navy sweater gained fluttery lingerie lace and a miniature pocket. Eveningwear incorporated subtle subversions: embroidered jackets layered with workwear collars, and black coats softened by a single satin tuxedo lapel.
The overall effect was a collection of approachable surrealism: pieces that invited touch and wearability while maintaining conceptual rigor, appealing to fashion devotees who value creativity without taking themselves too seriously.
