Ulla Johnson Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Ulla Johnson looked to the relationship between city life and urban nature, translating the idea of a pastoral escape into soft tailoring, airy dresses and clothes designed to move.

Staged beneath the Brooklyn Bridge at Gotham Park, Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2027 collection was firmly rooted in New York. The setting reflected the designer’s interest in urban green spaces and the fleeting nature of a runway show, with the brand committing to replant 750 native plants and 12 trees around the site following the presentation. That sense of creating something lasting informed a collection concerned with lived experiences: getting dressed, moving through the city and encountering other people along the way.

Johnson’s signature femininity remained central, but the clothes had a noticeably softer quality. Italian tailoring appeared alongside breezy separates, textural dresses and heavily washed denim, all worked through a muted pastel palette inspired by an urban pastoral landscape. Fishnet, sheer organza and embroidered lace created transparent layers, while fringe, scarf details and streamers introduced some of the season’s emerging motifs without overwhelming the clothes.

Movement became the collection’s most convincing element. Ruffled floral dresses, intricately draped jersey and pieces supported by internal horsehair shifted with the body, while fringed layers swayed as the models walked. A white closing gown, balloon trousers and a sweeping maxiskirt all relied on movement rather than rigid construction, giving the clothes an ease that suited the collection’s connection to nature.

There was also a subtle London thread running through the collection. Hand-painted florals appeared on trenchcoats, including styles manufactured by British heritage outerwear brand Mackintosh, while umbrellas created with Brigg & Co. referenced traditional British craftsmanship following the opening of Johnson’s London flagship. Rather than treating nature as an escape from the city, Spring 2027 suggests that beauty can exist within it — in green spaces, in movement and in the rituals of everyday dressing.