Tod’s Spring/Summer 2027

For Spring/Summer 2027, Matteo Tamburini asks where personal style actually comes from: the images, music, people and places absorbed over time that eventually become part of how we dress. His references — from Sade and Uma Thurman to Christy Turlington, Princess Diana and Linda Evangelista — inevitably point towards the 1990s, but the collection is less interested in nostalgia than in the process of taking what you admire and making it your own.

The trench coat became one of the collection’s strongest pieces, particularly a belted tan version with epaulettes worn by Irina Shayk, while Tamburini played with its proportions through a cropped iteration. Perforated leather emerged as another recurring idea, appearing across knitwear, handbags and Tod’s signature Gommino moccasins, where metal detailing gave the familiar silhouette a more graphic edge. Nappa and windsilk — a silk and nylon combination — added softness and technicality to the wardrobe.

The collection moved between polished and relaxed with flowy handkerchief dresses, knee-length preppy shorts, oversized V-neck sweaters and body-hugging bombers. The accessories were equally important, with the archival Candy bag returning alongside Tod’s familiar loafers, slides and Gomminos. Some of the leather skirts, with flaps extending from the hips, felt less convincing and somewhat cumbersome, but elsewhere Tamburini showed a good instinct for making established Tod’s signatures feel less predictable.

What makes the collection work is that it treats personal style as something accumulated rather than invented from scratch. The references may come from familiar cultural images, but Tamburini filters them through the practical elegance of Tod’s, creating a wardrobe that feels individual without becoming overly precious. It is a collection about influence, but more importantly, about what happens when you stop simply copying what you admire and start making it yours.