Thom Browne Men Fall 2026
For his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Thom Browne turned to an unlikely muse: the self-taught American folk artist Grandma Moses. Known for her nostalgic rural scenes, Moses painted the small-town America of memory rather than fact, and it is this sense of idealised simplicity that Browne reimagined through tailoring. The collection felt like a conversation between innocence and rigour, where hand-painted prints of Nantucket summers appeared on precision-cut jackets and pleated skirts. A lobster motif crawled playfully across intarsia knitwear, a recurring emblem that transformed domestic kitsch into something quietly surreal. Beneath the whimsy, however, was the steady heartbeat of Browne’s signature discipline: sharp suiting, perfect proportions, and an unwavering dedication to American craftsmanship.
This season, the designer seemed intent on softening his world without losing control of it. Traditional shirts in crisp oxford and poplin introduced an almost preppy sensibility, while apron-style jackets and utility trousers hinted at the working-class pragmatism behind Browne’s mythic Americana. Outerwear took many forms — toggle coats, mariner jackets, down puffers — each executed with architectural precision. Tweed and cavalry twill met zibeline cashmere and washed denim from Japan, creating a dialogue between heritage and invention. The result was a wardrobe that balanced Browne’s cerebral eccentricity with a kind of emotional accessibility, as though the man who made grey suits subversive had decided, finally, to tell a bedtime story.
That narrative was literalised in the collection’s lookbook, photographed in a recreated childhood bedroom. Models knelt beside their beds in prayer, surrounded by walls adorned with animal sculptures, including an oversized lobster. Browne described the imagery as a nod to the naivety of being young — and perhaps a wink at his own fascination with ritual and restraint. It was a tender moment from fashion’s perennial ironist, a designer who has built his empire on formality yet continues to find poetry in imperfection. Beneath the layers of wool and wit, this was a collection about the strange comfort of nostalgia, and about how growing up does not necessarily mean letting go of the dream.
