Sacai Men’s Spring 2027
For Spring/Summer 2027, sacai continued its exploration of hybrid design under the title The New Classics, using the runway to interrogate what happens when traditional menswear codes are deliberately disrupted and rebuilt. Chitose Abe approached the collection as a structural exercise in collision—where preppy tailoring, utility wear and subcultural references are merged, sliced and reassembled into new forms.
At the core of the collection was a reworking of familiar menswear archetypes. Navy blazers, shirting and collegiate silhouettes—developed in collaboration with Brooks Brothers—were deconstructed through sacai’s signature layering language. Collars were displaced, seams were exposed, and garments were reconfigured with unexpected internal construction, transforming formal codes into fluid, hybrid pieces that resisted fixed categorisation.
Rather than treating tailoring as a static system, Abe used it as raw material. Jackets appeared simultaneously structured and fragmented, with functional details such as chin ties and layered panels introducing movement and adaptability. The result was a wardrobe that felt familiar in reference but entirely re-engineered in execution.
This sense of cultural layering extended beyond clothing. A collaboration with Soul II Soul brought a musical and archival dimension to the collection, with graphics drawn from the group’s early London sessions at The Africa Centre. Tracks such as Back to Life and Keep on Moving reinforced the collection’s underlying rhythm of continuity and reinvention, while reinforcing sacai’s long-standing connection to subcultural energy.
Footwear and accessories continued the theme of hybridisation through a major partnership with BIRKENSTOCK. Classic silhouettes such as the Boston and Arizona were fused into multi-strapped, sculptural forms that extended sacai’s approach to construction into the realm of footwear. The collaboration emphasised function as design language, with comfort systems and utilitarian detailing becoming visible structural elements rather than hidden support.
What defined The New Classics was not simply collaboration, but methodology. sacai treated each reference point—heritage tailoring, street culture, music archives—as components within a single system of reconstruction. Nothing remained untouched, yet nothing was erased.
Spring/Summer 2027 ultimately reinforced Chitose Abe’s position as one of fashion’s most consistent innovators of form, where the idea of “classic” is not preserved, but continuously rewritten through process, layering and controlled disruption.
