Sabato De Sarno Presented His First Gucci Menswear Collection
Sabato De Sarno’s menswear debut for Gucci’s Fall 2024 collection marks a definitive shift from the brand’s previous direction under Alessandro Michelle. While Michelle’s era was marked by lavish, maximalist displays, De Sarno has clearly staked his own claim with a more refined, tailored, and—some would argue—commercial approach. But, as De Sarno himself noted, criticism of his last collection being merely “commercial” didn’t faze him. In fact, he seems to have doubled down, intentionally mirroring elements from his first show to make a statement about consistency and clarity.
Set in a black-box venue—a deliberate choice that demanded attention be paid to the garments themselves—the show opened with the same coat and silhouette that appeared in his first collection, though this time with slightly tweaked details. De Sarno’s message was clear: while the garments may be subtle, they are anything but simple. Each piece in this collection was meticulously crafted, showcasing his love for fashion as both art and function.
The collection introduced sharp tailoring with narrow-cut suits featuring deep, almost irreverent creases at the waist and legs—bold touches that suggested an edgy take on classic menswear. The outerwear was particularly noteworthy, with coats that featured single central vents sliced almost to the shoulder, creating a fluidity in movement that was as dramatic as it was understated. De Sarno’s eye for detail, from the glossy finish on faux-fur coats to the intricate bonded-leather linings, spoke to his commitment to craftsmanship.
Accessories, too, played a central role. The enlarged Jackie bags, inspired by Samuel Beckett’s travel tote, and the reimagined loafers—some with brothel-creeper platforms, others studded—added a unique flair that felt both grounded and daring. De Sarno’s focus on practicality was balanced by a willingness to push boundaries, as seen in his silk choker-clasped scarves and crystal-encrusted vests, which nodded to the fluidity of modern masculinity.
Where Michelle’s collections were often about spectacle, De Sarno is crafting a quieter revolution at Gucci. He’s less concerned with creating Instagram moments and more focused on the subtle luxury that has always defined the brand’s heritage. His focus on materials and the intricacies of construction highlight his passion for designing pieces that resonate on a deeper level.
De Sarno’s Gucci man is bold yet restrained, refined but never boring. The juxtaposition of tailored pieces with oversized accessories and fluid silhouettes challenges traditional menswear while embracing timeless elegance. With this collection, De Sarno has set the stage for his vision of Gucci: a brand that’s not afraid to evolve but never loses sight of its artisanal roots.
