Rick Owens Spring 2027

Rick Owens found inspiration close to home for Spring 2027, looking to the Basilica of Saint Clotilde in Paris and its old stone paintings for a collection built around what he called “elegant stoicism”. Regal column dresses became the starting point, translated through Owens’ familiar industrial lens into something simultaneously austere, sensual and slightly dystopian.

Stone-coloured gowns moved slowly down the runway at the Palais de Tokyo, some rigid and architectural, others made from gossamer fabrics that caught the wind. Their elongated silhouettes were paired with sharply cut car coats in double duchesse, while black tulle appeared in a textured, grid-like construction Owens dubbed “brutalist lace”. Fabric was pushed into graphic points around the collarbone and geometric bustles appeared on long denim skirts.

As the collection progressed, the mood became tougher. Sulfur-dyed denim was transformed into futuristic tunics, flared trousers and rugged rompers, while slim dresses and sculptural constructions continued to play with the tension between delicacy and strength. Owens’ earlier tensegrity experiments returned too, this time reworked for womenswear in frothy tulle threaded through elastic cords and wrapped around the body.

Even the accessories came with an Owens-style contradiction. Instead of his usual imposing footwear, models’ feet were wrapped in thick ropes of crystals, turning sparkle into something almost crude and industrial. The effect was deliberately perverse: glamour stripped of polish and rebuilt according to Owens’ own vocabulary.

The collection ultimately balanced dignity with irreverence. Victorian negligee-like softness, brutalist surfaces, rugged denim and sculptural silhouettes all sat within the same world, proving that Owens can make even something as traditionally delicate as a sparkly shoe feel distinctly severe.