Onitsuka Tiger Spring 2027
Andrea Pompilio continued his fascination with fashion as a form of character-building for Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer 2027, placing his cast of mismatched personalities inside a surreal “Energy Station”. The setting - part petrol station, part David Lynch fantasy - provided the backdrop, while two Honda Mid Sports Concept motorbikes opened the show to introduce the brand’s latest collaboration with the automotive company. Yet the real story was less about speed than individuality: Pompilio’s characters dress as though rules around styling simply do not apply.
That attitude comes through in the deliberately imperfect combinations. Kitsch floral shift dresses sit beneath sturdy car coats, balloon HotPants appear under oversized outerwear, and track pants with racing stripes are treated almost like tailored trousers beneath ’60s-inspired blazers. Windbreakers and sweatshirts become improvised layers over ribbed tanks and miniskirts, while fringes on shirtdresses, utility vests and suede jackets introduce a Western note. The clothes feel assembled rather than coordinated, which is precisely what gives them personality. Pompilio understands that contemporary street style often comes from the collision of things that were never intended to belong together.
The Honda collaboration extends that idea into more overtly automotive territory. Candy-coloured biker jackets, graphic long-sleeved tops and caps reference the world of motorcycling without turning the collection into literal racing merchandise. More interesting is the footwear, where Onitsuka Tiger’s identity as a sportswear and footwear brand becomes central to the proposition. Penny loafers are rebuilt with the label’s recognisable Tiger stripes, creating a convincing hybrid between collegiate polish and athleticism. The lace-up heeled boots are less successful, occasionally feeling like a fashion accessory added to complete the motorbike fantasy rather than a natural extension of the wardrobe.
What works about SS27 is Pompilio’s willingness to let the clothes look slightly unfinished. A collar sits incorrectly, a shoulder strap slips, a shirt is left untucked and layers appear thrown together at the last minute. Those details make the collection feel closer to how people actually develop personal style than a perfectly coordinated runway wardrobe. The Energy Station may have supplied the theatre, but the more interesting idea is what happens when everyone stops dressing for the same destination. Onitsuka Tiger’s characters are moving in different directions - and the collection is better for it.
