Moschino Spring 2027

For their first collection at Moschino, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina chose to do something slightly unexpected: turn the volume down. The duo, founders of Sunnei, staged the show on the roof of a Milan parking garage at golden hour, with models walking against a parade of ordinary people carrying phones, pushing bicycles, walking children and even accompanying their dogs. It was a clever setting for a collection built around the idea of bringing Moschino back into the present without simply recreating its past.

The clothes were noticeably more restrained than the camp-heavy collections that preceded them. The ironic slogans, exaggerated visual jokes and overt references were largely stripped away, replaced by a cleaner wardrobe of tailoring, leather and relaxed separates. That does not mean the humour disappeared entirely. Bermuda shorts came with colourful raffia, leather trousers and breeches were finished with toreador-style tassels, and one of the most memorable accessories was a life-sized black lacquer cat carried over the shoulder like an oversized handbag.

The challenge is that Moschino without its theatricality can quickly become just another contemporary Milanese wardrobe. There were moments when the collection approached that territory, particularly in its more straightforward tailoring and everyday pieces. But the show format helped keep the tension alive: the models were effectively moving through real life while wearing clothes that were supposed to represent a new Moschino language. The contrast suggested that the designers are less interested in nostalgia than in figuring out how much eccentricity the house actually needs to remain recognisable.

For now, the answer seems to be: some, but not necessarily all the time. Rizzo and Messina have resisted the temptation to arrive with an archive-heavy tribute to Moschino, instead establishing a cleaner foundation that leaves room for humour to return in smaller doses. Their debut is therefore less a reinvention than a reset — one that asks whether Moschino can be playful without needing to shout every time.