Maison Margiela Spring 2027

Glenn Martens explored the tension between hard and soft at Maison Margiela for Spring 2027, combining Parisian atelier techniques with his more experimental approach to construction. Sculptural coats and jackets were the standout, some appearing almost moulded from clay, with dramatic folds, built-in corsetry and exaggerated collars giving familiar tailoring an unfamiliar shape.

The corset became one of the collection’s recurring ideas, appearing on everything from silky T-shirts and turtlenecks to long, draped dresses. A white fluttering dress featured a bodice made from flattened silverware, while menswear translated the same structured feeling into trousers with thick tuxedo stripes and deconstructed jackets with concealed buttons. Elsewhere, long knitted tunics took on the appearance of fisherman’s nets, while boxy dresses were cut with sharp openings at the waist.

The collection worked best when Martens allowed these contradictions to sit naturally together. Structured tailoring softened into draping, garments appeared to collapse while remaining carefully constructed, and traditional Margiela codes were pushed into new territory. There were a few distractions, notably some floral prints that felt more retro than radical, but the strongest looks had a satisfying sense of tension and movement.

For Spring 2027, Martens continued to build a Margiela vocabulary that feels less interested in revisiting the house’s past than in questioning how clothes are made in the first place. Hard and soft, rigid and fluid, familiar and strange: the collection found its rhythm somewhere in between.