Luar Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Raúl Lopez returned to Queens, placing Christopher Street and Christopher Columbus in tension through historical dress, queer New York references and the designer’s own sense of home.

For Luar’s Spring 2027 show, Raúl Lopez brought fashion back to where much of his story began. Staged beneath the Unisphere in Flushing Meadows Corona Park, the collection was as much a homecoming as a runway show, with the familiar New York landmark providing an imposing backdrop. The setting connected directly to Lopez’s childhood in Queens, while the collection explored two very different histories attached to the name Christopher: Christopher Street and Christopher Columbus.

That tension appeared in the clothes through an unusual collision of historical dress and early-2000s New York streetwear. Tailoring drew on 15th- and 16th-century silhouettes, with exaggerated shoulders, voluminous breeches, ruffled details and feathered hats, while elongated trousers, striped jackets and flat sandals brought the proportions back into Lopez’s contemporary world. Custom lace was deliberately aged and distressed, while leather, painterly textiles and ostrich feathers added a slightly spectral quality to the collection.

The theatricality became more pronounced as the show progressed. Cobalt columns, sculptural tailoring and increasingly elaborate textures were punctuated by models with chalk-white faces, representing Lopez’s imagined vampires who had travelled with Columbus and eventually found their way to Christopher Street. It was an eccentric idea, but one that allowed the designer to connect historical fantasy with the queer cultural history that has long informed Luar. Collaborations with MCM, Kenner and Cadbury extended the collection into accessories, footwear and the cacao-inspired narrative.

Ultimately, the collection was less interested in resolving its competing references than allowing them to exist together. Lopez’s return to Queens gave the show a personal dimension, while the Unisphere — itself a symbol of global connection — reinforced the collection’s questions about movement, identity, history and who gets to define a place. Luar’s Spring 2027 wardrobe was deliberately expansive, bringing courtly silhouettes, streetwear, fantasy and personal history into the same world.