La DoubleJ Spring/Summer 2027

La DoubleJ’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection marks a subtle shift for a label that has built much of its identity around maximalism. J.J. Martin has spent years making exuberance the point — colourful prints, florals, fauna and an unapologetically more-is-more attitude — but this season she appears interested in what happens when some of that noise is removed. Alongside the expected prints came stripes, black-and-white polka dots and solid colours, suggesting a wardrobe less dependent on decoration and more interested in how the clothes themselves feel.

The idea of lightness became the collection’s loose organising principle, rather than another elaborate narrative. That restraint is notable for Martin, whose collections have often arrived with a fully formed spiritual or cultural backstory attached. This time, there was no retreat or vision quest to decode the clothes; the proposition was simply “beauty”. The collaboration with model Carolyn Murphy for Resort also seems to have nudged the brand towards a more minimal sensibility, creating an interesting counterpoint to Martin’s instinct for visual abundance.

That does not mean La DoubleJ has suddenly become minimalist. The personality is still there, but SS27 suggests Martin may be increasingly comfortable allowing it to come through in quieter ways. After years of maximalism, reducing the visual volume could actually make the house’s more exuberant pieces feel more distinctive. The new New York flagship, complete with a dedicated gong room, confirms that Martin has no intention of abandoning the world she has built around the brand. Instead, this season feels like an experiment in editing it — proving that La DoubleJ can be more than its prints without losing its sense of fun.