Khaite Spring 2027

For its 10th anniversary, Khaite returned to the codes that have defined the label, exploring the relationship between sensuality, structure and the female body.

Catherine Holstein marked Khaite’s 10th anniversary at New York Fashion Week with a collection that looked inward rather than chasing a new direction. Presented at Brooklyn Navy Yard, the show opened with Kaia Gerber in a leather midi skirt with corset lacing and a sculptural white bra, setting an assertive tone. PJ Harvey’s “Rid of Me” added to the tension, giving the presentation a harder edge than Khaite’s usual polished sensuality.

The collection moved between structure and exposure. Corsetry and boned bodices were paired with leather skirts and outerwear, while crinoline volumes contrasted with sharply defined waists. Slip dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces introduced a softer quality, with transparent fabrics creating another contrast against heavier leather. Long skirts developed into flower-like volumes, bringing movement to silhouettes that remained firmly focused on the body.

Rather than abandoning its established vocabulary, Khaite reconsidered it. Leather, structured tailoring, feminine proportions and sensual silhouettes appeared in different combinations and levels of intensity, allowing familiar ideas to feel newly arranged. There was a confidence in that restraint: after a decade, the brand does not need to distance itself from its foundations to demonstrate progression.

Spring/Summer 2027 ultimately felt like a reflection on what Khaite has become. Holstein continues to place the female body at the centre of the label, balancing strength with sensuality and American sportswear with a more intimate approach to dressing. For an anniversary collection, looking back proved less about nostalgia than understanding which ideas are still worth developing.