Hodakova Spring 2027

Ellen Hodakova Larsson approached climate anxiety with an unexpectedly easy touch for Spring 2027, turning deadstock fabrics and discarded materials into a sleek wardrobe with a distinctly ’90s feel. The Swedish designer drew inspiration from a summer spent at sea, where oppressive heat offered a reminder of how quickly the natural world can change.

Sustainability remained at the centre of the collection, but the clothes felt less conceptual than some of Hodakova’s earlier work. Slim blazers, shift dresses, lingerie-inspired slips and sailor dresses made from antique linens gave the collection a more familiar shape, while old washing machine covers became dresses and separates. Wax from a Stockholm beekeeper transformed deadstock viscose into translucent, papery fabrics, while pine tar referenced traditional boat-making techniques.

Her signature upside-down trousers returned as skin-baring V-neck dresses, alongside hand-knotted cotton nets and industrial mesh transformed into slinky gowns. The result was a collection that managed to make the designer’s environmental concerns feel wearable rather than worthy, with plenty of sensuality and a little ’90s nostalgia along the way.