Genny Spring/Summer 2027

Sara Cavazza Facchini takes Genny to the desert for Spring/Summer 2027, and the change of scenery gives the label’s femininity a welcome sense of ease. The collection moves through pale blues, sand, paprika and sunset reds, translating the mineral and vegetal references of the landscape into a wardrobe built around movement. Kaftans with trailing trains, handkerchief tops, low-rise trousers layered with chiffon and embroidered bloomers feel considerably more relaxed than Genny’s more formal romanticism, suggesting that resortwear may offer the house a particularly natural direction.

Lightness is the collection’s strongest quality. Jackets are reduced to the weight of shirts, scarves become structural elements and soft cagoule necklines open over lace bras, creating transparency without relying entirely on overt exposure. Tulle dresses are traced with thin cords that follow the body and redraw its contours, while silk muslin, poplin, jersey and crêpe allow the clothes to move rather than sit rigidly around the wearer. There is a sensuality here, but it comes more convincingly through fluidity than through traditional eveningwear construction.

The problem is that Cavazza Facchini never quite lets go of Genny’s fairy-tale vocabulary. Micro-pleated balloon minidresses arrive with petal-shaped bodices, while corseted dresses are sculpted into flowers and billowing tulle gowns return the collection to familiar territory. These pieces are beautifully aligned with the brand’s established femininity, but they also feel considerably less current than the more relaxed desert wardrobe. The contrast is revealing: Genny seems more contemporary when it loosens its grip on the fantasy.

The orchid, meanwhile, provides a useful bridge between the two directions. The house signature is broken apart into painterly prints, combined with animal motifs and even transferred onto distressed denim, giving a recognisable Genny code a less precious treatment. Jewellery references to Suzanne Belperron and her use of hardstones reinforce the collection’s interest in colour and mineral surfaces without turning the clothes into literal costume. SS27 is therefore at its most convincing when the desert is treated not as a theme to illustrate, but as an excuse to make Genny lighter, looser and more wearable. The fairy-tale can stay; it simply needs a little more sand on its shoes.