Ferragamo Spring 2027

Maximilian Davis looked to Lee Miller’s photographs from Egypt for Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2027, using safari dressing and desert colours as the starting point for one of his most assured collections for the Florentine house. But this was not a literal exercise in expedition dressing. Safari jackets, sleeveless shirts and pencil skirts were sharpened into body-conscious silhouettes, while spice-toned browns, ochres and reds gave the collection a distinctly sensual heat.

The strength of the collection was in the materials. Davis moved between gossamer fabrics, substantial leather and translucent rubber, creating a wardrobe that constantly shifted between utility and seduction. Leather safari vests and loosely laced pencil skirts were particularly effective, while scarf-like drapes wrapped tightly around the shoulder or sheer silk skimmed the legs. The translucent rubber trench coats and tank dresses, inspired by early 20th-century nurses’ uniforms and women’s workwear, gave the collection a more unexpected technical edge.

Ferragamo’s own codes remained firmly in place. Wide leather belts were positioned high on the waist and, at times, across the bust, while Gancini clasps appeared on substantial leather jackets and vests. The footwear brought the archive into the present through new versions of Salvatore Ferragamo’s F wedge and a reworked Vara pump. At the same time, strong-shouldered coatdresses and high-waisted tailoring introduced a 1940s elegance that sat comfortably alongside the more revealing pieces.

What makes Davis’s work increasingly convincing is his ability to create drama without overloading the clothes. The collection could be overtly sensual without becoming costume, and the menswear had enough swagger to stand alongside the women’s looks. After six years at Ferragamo, Davis appears increasingly comfortable balancing the house’s heritage with his own vocabulary — and SS27 suggests that the relationship between the two is becoming more natural with each season.