Christian Siriano Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Christian Siriano turned to 18th-century fantasy, 1980s glamour and Christian Lacroix for a theatrical collection that embraced fashion’s more extravagant side.

Inside New York’s Cunard Building, Siriano presented a collection caught somewhere between an 18th-century fairy tale and 1980s couture excess. The starting point was The Story of the Queen of the Flowery Isles, rather than Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, although the two share an appetite for historical fantasy and deliberate anachronism. The result was a distinctly Siriano interpretation of Rococo, built around drama, proportion and spectacle.

The collection moved from sinister black looks in laser-cut leather towards increasingly ornate silhouettes. Corsetry, squared-off tailoring and exaggerated volumes played with the relationship between the 1880s and the 1980s, while chartreuse and shocking pink gowns were punctuated by oversized Lacroix-inspired poufs. Vintage tapestry fabrics, reproduced by Siriano, added another layer of historical reference without making the collection feel like period costume.

Jewellery became part of the storytelling, with reproduced Christian Lacroix pieces mixed with genuine vintage finds sourced from Parisian flea markets. Elsewhere, python spandex and a tulle face shield pushed the theatricality further, occasionally veering into excess. Yet that excess is part of Siriano’s appeal: his clothes are designed to be seen, worn and enjoyed rather than treated as purely conceptual fashion.

The collection ultimately reinforced what makes Siriano relevant: an unapologetic belief in dressing up. Beneath the historical references and exaggerated proportions was a straightforward desire to give his customers something memorable to wear. In a fashion landscape often preoccupied with restraint, Siriano’s Rococo redux made a convincing case for a little more drama.