Carven Spring 2027

For his Carven debut, Kai Nesselrath looked to Madame Carven’s original philosophy of dressing women well, balancing polished silhouettes with a sense of ease and practicality.

The collection revisited the house’s late-1950s and early-1960s vocabulary through clean geometric cuts, high hemlines and neat ensembles, before shifting into a more relaxed contemporary wardrobe. Feathery jacquards, slinky knits, oversized button-downs and soft layers brought movement, while feather-shaped embroidery added texture. Lightweight coats were generously cut without feeling heavy, alongside neo-cargo trousers, multipocket jackets and skirts and dresses inspired by artisan aprons.

Nesselrath’s tailoring background showed in the precision of the outerwear, but he allowed the clothes to feel lived-in. Open-back necklines, draped dresses and raw edges gave otherwise polished pieces a little looseness, while the accessories brought their own charm: mismatched pencil-shaving earrings, vintage-inspired eyewear, roomy totes and mostly flat shoes.

As first collections go, this was deliberately measured. Nesselrath acknowledged the work of predecessors Louise Trotter and Mark Thomas while establishing his own direction, offering a wardrobe that felt recognisably Carven without becoming trapped by its archive.