Burberry Spring/Summer 2027
Burberry closed London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 with a collection that found Daniel Lee loosening the house’s most recognisable codes without abandoning them altogether. Presented at Chelsea College of Arts, the Burberry SS27 show took the brand’s familiar language of trench coats, checks and British outerwear into something softer, more playful and distinctly less formal. Bubble-hemmed coats, sequined dresses, leather jackets, low-slung denim and floral tailoring suggested a wardrobe designed to be worn rather than preserved. Central Cee’s appearance on the runway, in a pre-wrinkled anorak, relaxed grey jeans and silver chain, reinforced the collection’s connection to contemporary London street culture.
The biggest intervention came through Lee’s collaboration with British textile designer Celia Birtwell, whose hand-drawn florals, graphic checks and psychedelic motifs have been part of British fashion history since the 1960s. Created as part of Burberry’s 170th anniversary celebrations, Birtwell’s prints replaced much of the traditional Nova check with gingham, stripes, florals and playful graphic faces. Her motifs appeared across knitwear, shirts, coats, bags and shoes, while three-dimensional embroidery transformed otherwise familiar pieces with mimosa pom-poms, blueberries, rosebuds, vines and other botanical details. The result brought together two distinctly British visual languages: Burberry’s heritage and Birtwell’s exuberant, countercultural approach to pattern.
The Burberry trench coat was also given a less conventional treatment for Spring/Summer 2027. Rather than relying exclusively on the house’s signature gabardine construction, Lee explored silk, faille and taffeta, with versions appearing in soft pastel shades, dusty pink, lavender, burgundy and sky blue. Some were embroidered with flowers, while others were deliberately wrinkled or given softer, more relaxed proportions. That sense of imperfection became one of the collection’s central ideas. Lee’s approach suggests that luxury does not necessarily have to mean pristine clothing that looks untouched; instead, a garment can become more interesting as it is worn, altered and lived in.
That idea ultimately gives Burberry Spring/Summer 2027 its personality. The collection moves between polished tailoring and streetwear, romantic florals and utilitarian outerwear, sequins and denim, heritage checks and graphic prints. Rather than treating Burberry’s history as something fixed, Lee uses it as material to work with, bringing in Birtwell’s archive and references to London’s contemporary culture along the way. For a house approaching its 170th anniversary, the SS27 collection makes a case for heritage that feels less like preservation and more like participation - British fashion history, but with the edges deliberately left a little undone.
