Blumarine Spring/Summer 2027

David Koma let his nocturnal Blumarine woman see the sun for Spring/Summer 2027. After seasons of gothic romance, Koma looked west, introducing a distinctly Californian ease into the house’s familiar language of sensuality, femininity and drama. The result was a collection built around opposites: the girly and the vamp, the surfer and the princess, the polished and the slightly excessive.

The clothes moved between soft pastels and darker, more seductive moments, with tulle, feathers, crystals and ruching providing much of the spectacle. The opening black ruffled gown worn by Irina Shayk established the princess mood before a baby-blue version appeared repeatedly throughout the collection. Elsewhere, tiered tulle skirts were paired with Y2K-style varsity shirts, while lilac and yellow ruched skirts echoed Blumarine’s signature rose motif. Koma also pushed the brand’s lingerie vocabulary through baby-doll dresses, tiny silhouettes and sheer layers, while jersey cut-out leotards and technical leisurewear introduced a more active, California-influenced woman.

The collection was most convincing when these contradictions were allowed to sit together rather than being smoothed out. Familiar Blumarine cardigans provided a commercial anchor, while cut-out denim trousers, floral PVC bras and feather-trimmed pieces pushed the collection towards editorial territory. The floral motif appeared everywhere from frilled shirts and bombers to appliquéd crépon on a final sheer pink gown, sometimes feeling deliberately excessive but also reinforcing the recognisable codes that make the house commercially legible.

The biggest commercial conversation, however, may happen on the feet. Blumarine’s collaboration with Ugg reworked the Enwrap clog in two deliberately maximalist versions: one covered in metal embellishment and multicoloured cabochon stones, the other in ostrich feathers. It is an unlikely meeting of California casual and Italian glamour, but that is essentially the point of Koma’s Spring/Summer 2027. Blumarine does not abandon its gothic princess; it simply sends her to the beach, gives her a Pilates class and lets her stay out late.