Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2027

Andreas Kronthaler’s Spring 2027 collection for Vivienne Westwood was built around movement, contrast and the idea that there is no reason the back of a garment should be treated as an afterthought. Drawing on a heat-wave summer, colourful Parisian fabric shops and a centuries-old jacket, Kronthaler found a surprisingly loose way to continue the house’s punk tradition.

The collection’s colour began in Barbès, where Kronthaler sourced vivid Bazin cottons before randomly selecting lengths of fabric and allowing them to dictate what came next. Flowers were piled upon flowers, bold prints collided with beachwear, and Westwood’s familiar historical references appeared alongside a more carefree summer sensibility.

A late-17th-century Cheat Jacket provided the more unexpected foundation. Its elaborate fabric appeared only across the front, while the back was constructed from leftover materials. Kronthaler reworked the idea repeatedly, combining contrasting fabrics and deliberately making the reverse of each garment part of its visual identity. “The back is just as important as the front,” he explained. It became less a historical reference than a philosophy for the entire collection.

There was also a distinctly sensual streak, particularly in the menswear. Slouchy nightshirts and swimwear made a playful case for male seduction, with Kronthaler arguing that men should be allowed the same freedom to be sexy as women. The nightshirts came from his own experience during the recent heatwave, when he wore one while cycling and shopping with nothing underneath. It was an appropriately irreverent starting point for a collection that found freedom in movement, exposure and a little mischief.