Ami Paris Spring 2027
Alexandre Mattiussi has never seemed particularly interested in making fashion. He has always been more concerned with making clothes—a deceptively simple ambition in an industry increasingly driven by spectacle, viral moments and conceptual excess. For Spring/Summer 2027, that philosophy reached its clearest expression yet.
Presented inside Jean Nouvel's former Cartier Foundation, an architectural masterpiece where glass dissolves the boundary between inside and outside, AMI Paris unfolded with the same sense of openness. The venue proved an apt metaphor for the collection itself. Nothing felt rigid or overly considered. Tailoring was softened, proportions relaxed and every look carried the quiet confidence of garments designed to be lived in rather than simply admired.
At a time when luxury menswear often feels caught between nostalgia and novelty, Mattiussi continues to occupy a more enduring middle ground.
Tailoring Without Formality
The foundation of the collection lay in tailoring that had been liberated from its traditional constraints. Semi-lined and fully unlined jackets shifted away from structured formality, allowing fine wool suiting to drape naturally against the body.
Single-breasted bone-coloured suits appeared over vintage-washed T-shirts that looked as though they had been part of the wardrobe for years, while pearl-grey blazers floated effortlessly above fluid silk trousers. Throughout the collection, sharp tailoring coexisted comfortably with oversized silhouettes, creating a rhythm that never felt forced.
Rather than abandoning classic menswear codes, Mattiussi subtly redefined them. A sharply cut jacket could sit beside an expansive trench coat or a sweeping duster without disrupting the harmony of the collection. The result felt less like a seasonal wardrobe and more like clothes accumulated over a lifetime of instinctive dressing.
It reflected the designer's own description of the collection as one created with "optimism, energy and a genuine sense of happiness," inspired by the people and memories that continue to define contemporary Paris.
Sport Meets Sophistication
The dialogue between tailoring and sportswear has become a familiar conversation across menswear, but AMI approached it with uncommon restraint.
Relaxed cargo trousers appeared beneath shimmering silk shirts, while nylon technical garments were woven naturally into the collection rather than standing apart from it. Crisp poplins, fluid silks and performance fabrics created subtle shifts in texture that mirrored the movement between city life and casual ease.
Colour played an equally important role. Soft monochromes in pearl grey, ivory and natural stone established a calm foundation before flashes of cobalt blue, ruby red and rich ochre punctuated the runway with moments of unexpected energy.
The effect was vibrant without ever becoming loud.
A Parisian State of Mind
Casting reinforced the collection's easy optimism. Anwar Hadid captured the carefree charm of a visitor discovering the city for the first time, pairing an "I Heart Paris" graphic T-shirt with relaxed athletic-striped trousers. Meanwhile, Amelia Gray embodied the opposite approach, wearing softly tailored monochrome separates finished with understated canvas skate shoes.
Together, they represented two versions of the same AMI customer: relaxed, self-assured and entirely unconcerned with dressing to impress.
That effortless quality has become one of the brand's greatest strengths.
Accessories Designed to Age Beautifully
The accessories continued Mattiussi's commitment to understated luxury.
The Boyfriend Bag arrived in supple Nappa leather, deliberately constructed with an unstructured silhouette designed to soften and develop character over years of use. Rather than preserving perfection, it embraces wear as part of the design process.
The new Bingo Bag introduced one of the collection's cleverest design details. A polished sliding metal sphere allows the bag to transform effortlessly between shoulder and crossbody carry, combining functionality with a distinctive visual signature.
Footwear followed a similarly considered approach. Retro collegiate trainers returned alongside an updated Mirage running shoe, while injected-rubber slip-ons and trompe l'œil lace-ups balanced practicality with subtle experimentation.
Jewellery completed the collection with unmistakable Parisian references. Hearts, newspapers and traditional streetlamps appeared as delicate charms suspended from necklaces and stacked rings, offering playful reminders of the city that continues to inspire the house.
A Quiet Confidence
Fashion often rewards designers for making the loudest statement. Mattiussi continues to prove that the opposite can be just as compelling.
Rather than chasing trends or dramatic reinvention, AMI Paris Spring/Summer 2027 focused on refinement. Every construction choice—from deconstructed tailoring to softened leather accessories—served the same larger objective: creating clothes that feel authentic long after the runway lights fade.
