Acne Studios Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Jonny Johansson looked backwards and forwards at once, mixing Acne Studios’ denim roots with Renaissance references, ’80s pop and a distinctly Swedish response to a changing climate.

The collection opened with a familiar leather jacket and jeans transformed by a billowing taffeta ballgown, setting up the collision of everyday and historical dressing. Duster coats, leather breeches and pirate boots nodded to Adam Ant, while the Vasa Museum in Stockholm and the visual world of Marie Antoinette fed into the collection’s more theatrical side.

Floral and striped furnishing prints became the real stars, appearing across dresses, skirts and separates. Faded damask ball skirts were layered over pedal pushers and twinsets, while trompe-l’oeil denim offered a more playful interpretation of the brand’s signature material. Rather than stripping back for spring, Johansson built up the layers, reflecting his observation that Sweden is facing increasingly extreme winters.

With Acne Studios approaching its 30th anniversary and expanding into new markets, the collection felt like a reminder of how much the brand has changed while still returning to the denim that helped define it. Historical references came and went, but the prints and familiar Acne irreverence kept the collection grounded in the present.