Explore Louis Vuitton's menswear collection featuring a guest designer
Few runway shows in recent memory carried as much expectation as Louis Vuitton Menswear following the death of Virgil Abloh. His appointment in 2018 transformed not only the house but luxury menswear itself, dissolving the boundaries between streetwear, art, music and fashion in a way that reshaped the industry. The question facing Louis Vuitton was never simply who would design the next collection—it was how the house could move forward while respecting one of fashion's most influential creative legacies.
Rather than immediately appointing a new Creative Director, Louis Vuitton chose an unexpected path. For one season, it invited KidSuper founder Colm Dillane to collaborate with the existing Louis Vuitton studio, creating a collection that served as both a tribute to Abloh and a bridge toward the future.
The result was one of the most talked-about menswear collections of the season.
Who is Colm Dillane?
For those unfamiliar with the New York designer, Colm Dillane is the founder of KidSuper, a label celebrated for its playful storytelling, artistic references and unconventional approach to tailoring. Winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize Karl Lagerfeld Award in 2021, Dillane has built a reputation for treating fashion as performance art, often combining painting, illustration and theatre within his collections.
His creative philosophy shares many similarities with Virgil Abloh's. Both designers rejected the traditional barriers between disciplines, approaching fashion as part of a wider cultural conversation rather than simply clothing.
That made Dillane a natural, if temporary, collaborator.
A Collection Built Around Optimism
The show itself felt less like a conventional runway presentation and more like a celebration of imagination. Music, performance and storytelling became integral parts of the experience, reinforcing Louis Vuitton's increasingly cinematic approach to menswear.
Rosalía performed atop a vintage car, adding energy and spectacle while echoing the collection's recurring themes of travel, cultural exchange and creativity without borders. The set design and soundtrack reinforced the idea of movement between worlds, an idea that had long been central to Abloh's work.
Rather than attempting to erase the previous era, the collection embraced it.
The Clothes
Many of the silhouettes immediately recalled Virgil Abloh's tenure at Louis Vuitton. Oversized tailoring, relaxed suiting, varsity influences and playful accessories all remained present throughout the collection, creating a familiar visual language for the house.
At times this familiarity became its greatest strength. The collection demonstrated how successfully Abloh had established a new identity for Louis Vuitton menswear, one that could continue even through creative transition.
Some critics argued that certain looks felt too closely tied to previous seasons, raising questions about whether the brand risked relying too heavily on an aesthetic already associated with the early 2020s. Yet others viewed this continuity as intentional—a respectful acknowledgement that the house was still processing the loss of its visionary leader.
Alongside these recognisable elements, Dillane introduced touches unmistakably his own. Painterly graphics, whimsical details and a sense of humour softened the precision of traditional luxury tailoring, creating moments that felt distinctly KidSuper while remaining unmistakably Louis Vuitton.
Why the Collection Mattered
Fashion history often remembers permanent appointments, but transitional collections can prove equally significant. This collaboration represented a rare moment in which one of the world's largest luxury houses openly embraced creative dialogue instead of immediately replacing its departed designer.
Rather than announcing a dramatic new direction, Louis Vuitton acknowledged that innovation sometimes comes through collaboration.
The decision also highlighted the growing influence of independent designers within the luxury ecosystem. Dillane's appointment demonstrated that creative talent emerging from smaller labels could shape one of fashion's most prestigious maisons, even if only for a single season.
Looking Beyond Virgil Abloh
Perhaps the most interesting question raised by the collection was not whether it succeeded aesthetically, but what it suggested about Louis Vuitton's future.
Virgil Abloh fundamentally changed luxury menswear by bringing together architecture, music, street culture and art. His influence remains visible across the industry today. Yet every great fashion house must eventually evolve beyond even its most celebrated creative directors.
The Colm Dillane collaboration acted as a thoughtful pause rather than a complete reset, preserving the optimism and accessibility that defined Abloh's era while allowing another creative voice to contribute to the conversation.
Whether viewed as a tribute, an experiment or a transitional chapter, it remains one of the most fascinating moments in recent Louis Vuitton history.
Frequently Asked Questions
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Following Virgil Abloh's passing, Louis Vuitton collaborated with KidSuper founder Colm Dillane and the house's in-house design studio before appointing a permanent successor.
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Colm Dillane is the founder and creative force behind KidSuper, a New York fashion label known for blending art, storytelling and contemporary menswear.
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His multidisciplinary creative approach closely aligned with the philosophy Virgil Abloh championed, making him an appropriate collaborator during a transitional period for the brand.
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No. Colm Dillane collaborated on a single menswear collection alongside Louis Vuitton's internal design team rather than serving as the house's permanent Creative Director.
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The collection represents a unique moment in luxury fashion history, illustrating how Louis Vuitton chose collaboration and continuity while honouring Virgil Abloh's transformative legacy.