Saint Laurent Men Winter 2026
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear show at Paris’s Bourse de Commerce explored desire, identity, and hidden tension, drawing inspiration from James Baldwin’s 1956 novel Giovanni’s Room. Set against a chocolate-brown runway under dusky light, the collection played with contrasts: rigid tailoring and conservative suiting hinted at restraint, while PVC, latex, and subtle cut-outs suggested a liberated, sensual undercurrent. The result was a dialogue between outward composure and private yearning, reflecting both the novel’s themes and the house’s historical duality of elegance and nocturnal excess.
Vaccarello’s cuts were sinuous and X-shaped, with broad shoulders, cinched waists, and scooped necklines that revealed skin in unexpected ways. Accessories—fur muffs, silk scarves, and patent-leather mules—heightened the tactile drama, while subtle patterning in pinstripes, herringbone, and Prince of Wales checks added depth to the muted palette of maron glacé, chocolate, navy, and grey. The collection struck a balance between mystique and intimacy, letting each ensemble act as both armour and confession.
The narrative was deeply personal, yet wearable. By pairing conservative sartorial cues—topcoats, ties, and banker stripes—with provocative layering and textures, Vaccarello translated Baldwin’s meditation on forbidden love into fabric and silhouette. The show also hinted at wider ambitions, with Vaccarello considering designing costumes for a screen adaptation of Giovanni’s Room. Ultimately, the collection reaffirmed Saint Laurent as a house of elegance, secrecy, and desire, where love and identity are woven into every seam.
