Ray Chu Spring/Summer 2027

Ray Chu presented his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Fans Only Club, during London Fashion Week on 18 September, looking to Taiwan’s Sambucus flower - known locally as 冇骨消 - as a symbol of quiet strength, community and identity. The flower’s small white blossoms grow in delicate clusters, an idea Chu translates into a gender-fluid wardrobe where refined tailoring meets translucent layers, body-conscious silhouettes and softly structured separates. Rather than reproducing the flower literally, its forms appear through fragmented botanical prints, clustered embellishment and subtle shimmer, creating a collection that feels delicate without becoming fragile.

Two prints anchor the collection: Taiwan Banana Club, first introduced for Pre-Spring 2027, returns with its colourful, nostalgic take on Taiwanese culture, while a new Sambucus print transforms the flower’s clustered blossoms into an abstract botanical motif. Selected looks are illuminated with Swarovski ReCreated™ Crystals, created from crystal manufacturing breakage and arranged to evoke water droplets, reflected light and the natural formation of the Sambucus flower. The collection's quieter approach to embellishment allows the clothes themselves to remain at the centre, with light and texture revealing themselves through movement.

The season also sees Chu collaborate with Japanese artist MOMOJIRI WORKS, who translates the collection’s botanical references into twisting lines, delicate structures and unexpected proportions. The resulting pieces sit somewhere between jewellery, object and wearable sculpture, adding a playful sculptural element to Chu’s fluid tailoring. That sense of play extends to the presentation’s collaboration with Hong Kong sexual-wellness brand Hello Nancy, with selected looks incorporating pieces from its Tennis Collection. The unexpected pairing of fashion, sensuality and humour feels particularly at home within Chu’s Taiwan Banana Club universe, where colour, fruit and self-expression have long been part of the visual language.

Material innovation remains equally important to SS27, with lightweight mint-fibre shirting and quick-drying Icy Grass jersey bringing breathability and technical comfort to the wardrobe. Predominantly using natural-fibre-based or environmentally conscious fabrics, Chu continues to explore the relationship between function, responsibility and longevity. At its core, Fans Only Club returns to the designer’s central idea: that individuality does not have to exist in opposition to community. Like the Sambucus flower itself, its strength comes from the way seemingly delicate elements gather together to create something greater.

Photography by Emanuele Moi