Rabanne Fall 2026
For fall 2026, Julien Dossena found inspiration in an unlikely source: vintage British tea dresses discovered while trawling markets and secondhand shops across the U.K. The delicate, 1940s silhouettes became the unlikely starting point for a collection that twisted nostalgia into something far less polite. On the runway at Rabanne, those prim dresses were layered with colourful knits, drenched in sequins and threaded with jangling metal embellishments, turning quiet vintage charm into something louder and more mischievous.
Contrast has long been central to Dossena’s approach, and here it felt particularly charged. Loose, old-fashioned dresses were toughened up with crystal embroidery and metallic fringe, while jacquard sweaters that looked almost homespun were thrown casually over shimmering skirts. The mood tipped toward punk when oversize plaid jackets in classic menswear fabrics appeared, styled with pleated Zoot-suit trousers and trenches trimmed with furry two-tone collars. Colour and texture clashed deliberately, a bright blue fur collar against burgundy wool or highlighter pink exploding across a brown jacket.
The result carried a deliberate roughness. Skirts dissolved into thick fringe or metal mesh, blazers were punctured with oversized grommets like industrial piercings, and the overall styling felt intentionally unpolished. For Dossena, that imperfection mirrors the world outside fashion’s rarified bubble. Luxury, he suggested backstage, has grown overly conservative. His response was a wardrobe that embraces contradiction, where good taste and bad taste coexist, reflecting the nonchalance of the streets around Paris’s Gare du Nord and the lives of the women he designs for, busy, practical and uninterested in looking too polished.
