Prada Spring 2027

Prada reduced Spring/Summer 2027 to a deceptively simple proposition: the skirt. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took one of the most familiar pieces in womenswear and treated it almost as a laboratory, changing its proportions, surfaces, fastenings and relationship to the body. The restriction works because Prada has never needed endless categories to make a point. Here, the skirt becomes the point - feminine without being precious, functional without becoming boring.

The collection brought back many of the codes that have made Prada so recognisable: awkwardly beautiful prints, pleating, technical nylon, ladylike shoes and deliberately practical details. Velcro closures were covered in crystals, oversized snaps became decoration and crinoline moved from hidden structure to visible embellishment. Re-Nylon and ciré fabrics were pleated, cotton was treated to resemble leather or suede, and crystal constructions mimicked lace. It is classic Prada territory, where the distinction between ugly and beautiful, cheap and luxurious, practical and decorative is deliberately unsettled.

The styling gave those skirts a tougher contemporary context. Leather biker jackets, spray-painted car coats, cropped knits, cotton shirts and sculptural bra tops prevented the collection from becoming a parade of pretty bottoms. Some silhouettes were prim and knee-length; others exploded into volume or sliced dramatically towards the hip. Simons’ influence was particularly visible in the industrial and rave-adjacent touches, giving Miuccia’s more intellectual femininity a harder edge.

What makes SS27 interesting is its refusal to treat the skirt as a trend. Prada is effectively asking how much can still be extracted from an object that fashion has been reinventing for centuries. The answer is quite a lot, provided the design is approached through construction rather than novelty. Not every variation feels equally necessary, but the collection is strongest when Prada’s familiar contradictions - feminine and severe, functional and decorative, sophisticated and slightly strange - are allowed to coexist without being overexplained.