Paul Costelloe Autumn/Winter 2026

Every fashion season has its emotional moment, and this one belonged to Paul Costelloe. The Irish designer, who dressed Princess Diana and defined an era of confident femininity, passed away in November at the age of 80. For those of us who have followed his work, the idea of a Paul Costelloe show without him felt almost unimaginable. Yet as the lights rose on the autumn winter 2026 collection, there it was. His son, William Costelloe, stepped into his father’s role with a show that felt both tender and revitalising.

It opened with a tailored Irish tweed jacket from Magee, chosen by Paul himself last autumn, its shoulders blooming with florals that hinted at both memory and renewal. That single look set the tone for a collection that honoured the house’s history while quietly rewriting it. The silhouettes recalled the sharp tailoring and sculpted shoulders that once made Princess Diana a Costelloe muse, yet the energy felt lighter, fresher, more youthful. There was movement where there used to be formality, and an intimacy that suggested William was designing not just for the brand’s legacy but for its future.

The palette of greys, mochas and taupes grounded the drama in something more reflective. Ballgowns were adorned with Paul’s own illustrative sketches, literally weaving his hand into the new chapter. There was also a playfulness in the accessories: long scarves, oversized bags, and generous ribbed knitwear that softened the precision of the tailoring. The overall mood was one of confident transition. This was not an attempt to reinvent his father’s style, but to carry it forward with grace.

When William Costelloe came out for his bow, the audience stood in a way that felt spontaneous and genuine. The applause was not just for the clothes but for the continuity. For a house that many feared might fade without its founder, the collection proved the opposite. The name Paul Costelloe remains above the door, but the spirit behind it has found new life. It was a reminder that family succession, when led with both love and conviction, can keep fashion’s most personal stories alive.