Pam Hogg SS24 ‘Apocalypse - Dedicated to Sinead O’Connor

Pam Hogg’s runway show at London Fashion Week unveiled her Spring/Summer 2024 collection, "Apocalypse," a stirring tribute to the late Sinéad O'Connor. This powerful presentation captured both the essence of O’Connor’s rebellious spirit and the societal tensions that Hogg often weaves into her work. In dedicating the collection to O’Connor, whom she compared to Joan of Arc, Hogg drew a poignant parallel between the two women—both of whom faced persecution for challenging authority.

The collection was a visceral blend of counterculture materials and subversive symbolism, hallmarks of Hogg’s aesthetic. Known as the "Caledonian Queen of Cling," Hogg showcased her signature use of PVC, leather-infused jerseys, sheer mesh, and metallics, crafting pieces that challenge mainstream fashion. As always, her designs blended punk provocativeness with a deeper artistic narrative, often using materials she’s repurposed for over two decades.

"Apocalypse" was not just a spectacle of fashion but a commentary on the world’s present state. The show opened with O’Connor’s rendition of “Trouble of the World,” setting a tone of emotional intensity that lingered throughout. Religious motifs, particularly crucifixes, adorned several pieces, evoking themes of redemption and judgement. These symbols underscored O'Connor’s vocal opposition to the Catholic Church, a fight that made her an enduring icon of resistance.

The collection’s color palette—dominated by red, black, and white—reinforced the idea of conflict and contrast. Many of the outfits invoked images of vintage nurses’ uniforms, with crimson crosses etched onto stark white hats. This medical imagery was juxtaposed with religious symbols, blending the sacred and the secular, the scientific and the spiritual. Hogg’s artistic vision seemed to blur the lines between the sterile routine of surgery and the ritualistic fervor of religious service.

Despite the weighty themes, Hogg’s playful side emerged through bold, body-hugging latex jumpsuits and disco-inspired mini dresses. The finale of the show featured a procession of ethereal, candy-colored gowns—a softer, dreamlike tribute to O’Connor, whose presence infused the entire collection with a sense of reverence and defiance.

The audience, composed of prominent figures in the creative world, including artist Tracey Emin and designer Sandy Powell, bore witness to this deeply personal and politically charged collection. Hogg’s "Apocalypse" wasn’t just a fashion show; it was an invitation to reflect on the intersection of art, activism, and personal expression. By invoking Sinéad O’Connor, Hogg celebrated a figure who, like her, refused to conform to societal expectations, making this runway show a poignant, layered tribute to an unyielding spirit.