Martine Rose A/W26

Martine Rose has always understood that the most radical thing about fashion is when it feels real. For Autumn/Winter 2026, she returned to that core spirit, stripping away the gloss to reveal something instinctive and personal. Captured through pared-back imagery that evokes the intimacy of her own studio, the collection read like a love letter to creation itself. It was filled with the kind of quietly chaotic energy that defines her world: workwear meeting corsetry, sportswear flirting with glamour, and silhouettes that play with identity rather than define it.

Rose’s tailoring came with subversive twists. Corset lacing ran across denim jackets and suits, while bomber-jacket nylon was reimagined into sculptural, Renaissance-like sleeves. Faux fur appeared as both parody and indulgence, stitched into parkas and stoles that merged nostalgia with performance. References ranged from Henry VIII to James Brown to Prince Naseem, forming a mischievous conversation about power, flamboyance and gender play. Boxer shorts appeared with crushed camisole fabrics, while military shirts morphed into nightgown shapes, the line between strength and sensuality growing ever more ambiguous.

Accessories amplified this irreverent tone. The Martine Rose x Nike Shox trainer returned in a vivid red, while new deconstructed work boots and python-effect heels carried the same sense of deliberate imperfection. Belts printed with news graphics and jewellery made from bent bottle tops added a dose of wit to the mix. In Rose’s world, glamour is an attitude, not a finish, and fashion’s imperfections are what make it feel alive. This season proved once again that her power lies not in spectacle, but in showing us how clothing can shape, question and celebrate who we are.