Kolor Spring 2027
For Spring/Summer 2027, Kolor presented a menswear collection that looked at everyday dressing from an unfamiliar perspective. Shown during Paris Fashion Week, designer Horiuchi explored ideas of identity, difference and the feeling of being an outsider through a collection that reimagined familiar wardrobe codes.
Rather than approaching science fiction through obvious futuristic references, Kolor created a more subtle vision, using the idea of the “other” to examine how people understand themselves and each other. The collection suggested that a sense of unfamiliarity is something shared — that everyone can feel like an outsider depending on their surroundings.
The starting point was one of menswear’s most recognisable uniforms: corporate tailoring. Traditional suits and pinstripes were transformed through Kolor’s distinctive approach, with asymmetric necklines, unexpected button placements and contrasting waistbands disrupting otherwise familiar silhouettes.
The collection gradually moved away from conventional office dressing, introducing brighter colours and more experimental proportions. Saturated shades appeared alongside more restrained tones, culminating in a series of minimalist green looks that reinforced the collection’s otherworldly atmosphere. Some models wore black sclera contact lenses, while tailored coats featured printed textures designed to resemble fur, creating a contrast between the everyday and the unfamiliar.
Horiuchi’s references extended across film, music and popular culture, drawing inspiration from science fiction, the mysterious world of The X-Files, and figures such as David Bowie and Andy Warhol, artists known for challenging ideas of identity and transformation.
The collection was also shaped by a group of international collaborators. Taiwanese band Mong Tong created the soundtrack for the presentation, Greece-based artist Klaus Schmidt contributed tactile textile elements, and Chinese-born painter Yang Bo developed graphic details that appeared throughout the collection.
Alongside the futuristic references, subtle Western influences appeared through geometric jacket detailing and structured leather boots, introducing another layer to the collection’s exploration of characters and identities. The result was a wardrobe that felt as though familiar clothing had been reconstructed through the perspective of someone encountering it for the first time.
Since taking over the creative direction of Kolor following founder Junichi Abe, Horiuchi has continued to develop the house’s language of experimentation and understated disruption. For Spring 2027, the designer used science fiction not as an escape from reality, but as a way of looking back at everyday human experiences from a different angle.
