Junya Watanabe Spring 2027

Junya Watanabe delivered two collections in one, and neither had much interest in keeping a low profile. The first was a high-energy exercise in excess, dripping with crystal fringe, oversized pearls, studs and enough sparkle to rival a jewellery counter. The second turned towards Edwardian grandeur, with black lace, dramatic hats and crinoline hems that seemed to burst outwards. Outrageous, theatrical and thoroughly entertaining, the collection felt like a deliberate rejection of fashion’s recent restraint.

Titled “Funky”, the show opened to a driving funk beat, with models dancing their way down the runway as the audience responded with cheers. Dark catsuits were covered in a meteor shower of silver embellishments, accessorised with sunglasses trailing crystal fringe, Michael Jackson-inspired studded gloves and ropes of pearls and chains. One model appeared beneath an enormous crystal chandelier, turning the idea of dressing up into something closer to wearable spectacle. Statement Afros, cut into thick, colourful wedges, added another layer of visual drama, although the styling also risked reducing cultural expression to a runway provocation.

The embellishment continued through black tulle dresses with silver detailing and a military edge, sequinned minis finished with fringe, and bodices suspended with tiny circuit-board-like decorations and chains. Cut-up tweed and leather biker jackets were transformed by oversized pearls and glittering accents, while reconstructed trench coats became cape coats and apron dresses. Watanabe treated familiar wardrobe pieces as raw material for something far less predictable, with every surface seemingly an opportunity for further disruption.

Then the lights dimmed, Michael Jackson’s “I Just Can’t Stop Loving You” replaced the funk, and the mood shifted. Black gowns arrived in loose, crinkled forms, alongside ruffles and exaggerated crinoline hems worthy of My Fair Lady. Sheer black hats brought a distinctly aristocratic finish, and could easily find their way to Royal Ascot next season. Two distinct wardrobes, one emphatic message: fashion need not choose between glamour and provocation. In a season often preoccupied with quiet luxury, Watanabe made a persuasive case for getting dressed loudly.