Jenny Packham Spring 2027

Jenny Packham is known for clothes that catch the light, but for Spring 2027 she deliberately turned the brightness down. “I wanted to move things on and offer a more relaxed approach to dressing,” she said, introducing a collection that swapped some of her signature embellishment for shoulder pads, lighter fabrics and a more minimalist sensibility. Titled “Disco Couture: Part Two”, the collection continued her exploration of 1970s dance culture and the long nights spent beneath a glitter ball, but the disco references arrived with considerably less decoration. Shimmery slipdresses in champagne gold and peachy pink moved easily around the body, while sporty tank-style tops, spaghetti straps and fluid silhouettes gave the evening wardrobe a younger, more relaxed energy.

The most interesting shift came in the dresses that resisted sparkle altogether. A sleeveless chiffon gown with a pussy bow, a strapless burgundy dress gathered at the front and a lightweight pleated metallic style had little need for additional decoration because their appeal came from shape and fabric. Where Packham did use embellishment, she exercised similar restraint, concentrating glittering, sinuous motifs around waists, collars and cuffs, inspired by the jewellery of Alexander Calder. Even the beaded pieces were deliberately pared back, often using a single type of embellishment or translucent sequins that allowed the colour and construction of the dress to remain visible. It was a subtle change for a designer whose eveningwear has traditionally embraced abundance, but one that made the clothes feel more relevant to how women increasingly want to dress.

The shift comes at an interesting point for the brand, which is approaching its 40th anniversary with a rebrand and new stores in the pipeline. Packham's royal and celebrity following remains firmly intact, but even the Princess of Wales appears to have anticipated the direction of travel. For the London premiere of Digger, Kate Middleton wore an unembellished purple chiffon Packham gown, accessorised with the late Queen Mother's pearl, diamond and amethyst necklace and Princess Diana's Collingwood pearl earrings. It was a useful demonstration of the designer's new argument: eveningwear does not necessarily need to announce itself with sequins. Sometimes the most memorable thing a dress can do is simply move beautifully.